I find myself for 26 hours in Sofia, Bulgaria. It’s a nice city, with easy access to/from the airport in relatively cheap taxis ($8-$11). But why am I even here? We’ll get to that.
For my overnight stay I chose the Sofia Balkan Hotel, part of the Luxury Hotels/Starwood group. The interiors were nice, but the lobby was unfortunately taken up by an education convention, so the interior was a bit off. Outside, there is an archeological dig taking place, with an awkward fencing separating the hotel from the street.
I managed a great rate on Booking.com for a Junior Suite, and when checking into room 327 was shocked at the state of the furniture – the couch was literally thread-bare. A quick trip back to reception yielded 527 – much nicer. A good reminder to never take the first room you’re offered if you don’t love it. There’s almost always a better one.
The hotel’s central location was great – the city’s large pedestrian mall was a block away, as was the meeting site for the local Free Sofia Tour, which lasted about two hours and was a great way to see the city and get an overview of the lay of the land. Sofia has been populated for 6000 years and has flipped back and forth between occupation and liberation about 4 times.
The highlights of the tour were the open-air excavations and taking a sip of the running sulphuric mineral water at the public bath house. It’s the second time I’ve been in an ex-Soviet Eastern European city, and Communism fell less than 30 years ago – the city still has the marks of the regime in its huge Soviet-era buildings.
I spent some time at the synagogue, with a lovely introduction to it from a local congregant. He was old enough to live through the Holocaust, and a witness to the miracle of the Bulgarian Jewish survival through the period. Even though Bulgaria was a member of the Axis, it never deported its Jews to the camps. My Shul guide told me all the Sofia Jews moved away to the North and stayed with other Jewish families. He was 5 at the time.
Overall, Sofia is a funny place though – the public bath house has been turned into a museum, even with its beautiful architecture and springs still intact. A spa is being planned – that would be make more sense. The statue of Sofia that is the cities’ new symbol is a strange amalgam – the city is named after a Saint, yet the statue had an unsaintly neck line and is adorned with pagan objects.
So why am I even here? It’s all about the Gold. Gold status on BA, that is. My year end is over soon, and I found myself in spitting distance to Gold status. Going Gold has a number of benefits over Silver, including First Class lounge access, seating choice at booking, better upgrade chances, and accelerated points-earning to help maintain your level.
Doing a bit of research, I discovered there are a handful of shorter ‘long haul’ flights that provide maximum points with minimal time – evaluating the options like Marrakech (been there), Rekjayvek (would want to spend longer and expensive on the ground), St Petersburg (not gay friendly), and landed on Sofia – cheap on the ground, and in a country I’d never been to before. I have a goal to travel to 50 countries by the time I’m 50, and Bulgaria is now #46.